PCT section A: Pioneer Mail to Warner Springs

Last week I completed the second half of the first section of the Pacific Crest Trail, through the Anza-Borrego Desert, which turned out to be a good little adventure. Pics and comments below for anyone who might wonder — what's it like to walk the PCT in SoCal just 50-100 miles north of the border? 

Let me start with a moment of mild drama…ran into this fellow hanging out in the trail:

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Fortunately he was very mellow, and hardly seemed to notice as I skirted him and the trail to pass, (after trying to move him on with a couple of chucked rocks). 

After the picnic area known as Pioneer Mail, where (for logistical reasons) I had to leave the trail last year, and where I resumed this past week, the trail climbs a low ridge, then begins a long gentle descent towards the Anza-Borrego Desert. A walker begins to see a few cacti amidst the chaparral. 

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After about fifteen or more miles of dryness, water can be found at what is known as Rodriguez Spur. Lots of hikers gathered there this past year, clustering within a few feet of the spring (captured in a concrete box). I camped a 100 feet down the way, behind a sheltering tree. Not a spectacular place, but the intersection of a jeep road and the cattle fence made for an interesting night pic.

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My second day on the trail led me gently down, down, down towards the desert floor, with some impressive views and nice flowers (April is the season for desert flowers).

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The desert isn't my fave ecotone, but this was an easy trail to like.

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After an hour or two I reached the desert floor, and boy did it fit the profile. 

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The trail crosses two highways in short order, 78 and 79, and beneath a bridge I found a half-dozen hikers hanging out in the shade, enjoying some grapes brought by Crash Test, who was resting a pinched nerve in her shoulder. Had a nice chat with a helpful fella known as Rock Ocean (more later on this trail saint, er, angel). 

No shortage of water at this cache — wish I had known. Wouldn't have schlepped 7 liters.

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After crossing the highways, the trail heads up into the San Felipe Hills, the most desert-y and spectacular section of this sixty miles or so.

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Ran into some folks on horseback who told me that in a normal (non-drought) year, every step of this way at this time of year would be wildflowers. Plausible. Thought this was about cutest little barrel cacti I've ever seen. 

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Amazingly, thunder was heard, rain came down — and lightning! But after camping hastily, of course the clouds dissipated, which made for some soft air and sweet views:

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To make it to Warner Springs, the end of the section, and home with a day to recoup meant a 24-mile schlep, but off I set. At the 90-mile mark I encountered this sign — more aqua I didn't need to carry:

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Ran into a group of folks supplying cases and cases of water for the official "kick-off" from Morena Lake on the 24th. They said they were laying in enough water for 500 hikers. Here's Jim Hawkins, a geologist at Scripps, doing his part. I thanked him a bunch. 

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Trail wasn't the prettiest, but the views — wow.

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Leaving the San Felipe Hills behind, the trail turned north, and the landscape softened.

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Delighted to see this in the trail:

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 And a gentler kind of floral beauty, w/o thorns:

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Starting to feel pretty good in the grasslands before Warner Springs.

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Maybe there were pioneers coming through here:

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Here's Saunter, a through hiker from a few years back, heading south towards the kick-off at Morena Lake in about a week. 1-DSC00557

And here's humble but charming Warner Springs, where hikers have been congregating and even camping out in the parking lot, much to the surprise of the local Calfire crew. 

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Published by Kit Stolz

I'm a freelance reporter and writer based in Ventura County.

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